Fall 2022 - Old Wineries, A New Generation Takes Over

Wednesday, January 19, 2022

Slow cooked winter comfort, and then some

Recipes

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Slow cooked winter comfort, and then some

Recipes by Trish Glose

Photography by Ezra Marcos

Pull out the big pots and get ready for a warm, cozy house. I love the winter and early spring months for cooking things low and slow, starting a food project around noon to have it ready a few hours later as the sun fades away. These recipes are pure comfort, in fact, the pork ragù is borderline decadent. It’s an NC-17, knock-your-wool-socks-off, super rich, must-drink-with-good-wine kind of dinner. PS—these aren’t speedy dishes. They’re meant for chilly days when you have nowhere to be but in your kitchen with a glass of wine.

The pork and the veggies are really the stars of the show. I was pleased as punch to learn I can find slab bacon (and basically anything) at Cherry Street Meats, and I always grab my produce from Market of Choice.

I recently left the world of local news after nearly 20 years in the business and these days, you can either find me in the kitchen or working on my new podcast, Hungry for More: an Epicurean’s Dilemma, long form interviews with a smorgasbord of foodie and wine types. Watch them on my YouTube channel or listen on your favorite podcast platform. All links (and my recipes) can also be found on my website, trishglose.com. Join me in the kitchen. I’m cooking up a storm on my IG and on Facebook.

COLLARDS WITH BACON

3 large bunches collards (or any sturdy green like kale, mustard, or turnips), cleaned, stem removed and rough chopped

1 yellow onion, small dice

8 oz slab bacon, cut into 1-inch chunks

1/2 cup (or more) chicken stock

1/4 tsp fresh grated nutmeg (optional)

Render bacon in a large, heavy bottom pot until crisp. Sauté onion until soft.Add greens in bunches until soft, season with salt and pepper, grate in nutmeg if using. Add just enough stock to barely braise greens, let simmer until tender, about 30 minutes. Serve as is or with something pickled and spicy on top.

 

PORK RAGÙ WITH GRUYERE GRITS

1 ounces dried porcini mushrooms (I couldn’t find porcinis, so I used 1 oz of mixed, dried mushrooms)

Boiling water (about 1 to 1-1/2 cups)

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

8 ounces sliced cremini mushrooms

4 garlic cloves, minced

kosher salt

2 cups dry white wine, divided

1-1/2 pound boneless country-style pork ribs, cut into 1/2-inch cubes and sprinkled with salt and pepper

1 pound fresh hot Italian sausage

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 carrots, peeled, finely chopped

1 celery stalk, finely chopped

1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes (look for high quality brand – San Marzano preferably), crushed by hand

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 cup (or more) chicken stock

2 bay leaves

Freshly chopped Italian parsley

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Finishing olive oil (I use Durant’s Arbequina)

  • Reconstitute dried mushrooms in a small bowl with boiling water. Let sit for 45 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer mushrooms to a cutting board and rough chop. Reserve liquid.
  • Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add cremini mushrooms and sauté until they begin to soften and brown, about 3-4 minutes. Add garlic and sauté 30 seconds, season with salt and pepper, add 1/2 cup wine and simmer another few minutes and set aside.
  • Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in large, heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add pork and sauté until getting brown, take out with a slotted spoon and set aside. Leave about 2 tablespoons of fat in pan, remove the rest. Add Italian sausage and break up with a wooden spoon, then cook until no longer pink. Add onion, carrot, and celery and cook until veggies are soft, stirring occasionally. Add 2 tablespoons tomato paste and cook until veggies and paste are getting a bit brown. Add the remaining 1-1/2 cups of wine and bring to a boil, scraping up the brown bits that develop on the bottom of the pan.
  • Add tomatoes, chicken stock, bay leaves, pork and reconstituted mushrooms, plus the reserved soaking liquid. Bring mixture to a slight boil, reduce heat and simmer uncovered until pork is tender. If ragù is getting too dry, add more stock as needed. Check for seasonings.
  • After pork is tender (I cooked mine for about 3 hours low and slow), add creminis and let simmer for another 5 minutes.
  • Serve in bowls with Gruyere Grits, fresh chopped parsley and fresh grated Parmesan. Drizzle with finishing olive oil.

NOTE: Ragù can be made a day ahead, in fact, that’s what I’d do. Flavors were much better the next day.

 

GRUYERE GRITS

4 cups water

1 cup white grits (I use Palmetto Grits)

3 tablespoons butter

1 cup half and half

4 ounces cream cheese

1 loving cup grated Gruyere cheese

Boil water in a large nonstick pot, whisk in grits and reduce heat to low. Let cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add 1 tablespoon butter and 1/2 cup of the half and half, season with salt. Cook another 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally and add remaining butter, half and half, and cream cheese. Stir and keep cooking for another 15-20 minutes. Let simmer on low for a total of 1 hour or more, stirring occasionally and check for seasonings. Off heat, add gruyere and let melt right before serving.

NOTE: I baby my grits. Add butter and half and half to your liking; the longer you cook them, the better they are.

 

BOSTON SOUR

2 ounces bourbon

1 ounce lemon juice

1/2 ounce simple syrup

1 egg white

Ice

 

Add all ingredients to a shaker, except the ice. Shake for about 10 seconds (this is referred to as a dry shake)

Add good amount of ice and shake for an additional 10-20 seconds (don’t skimp—wake that drink up!)

Strain into a coupe glass, serve up.

 

Note: We love this cocktail in the winter, when citrus are in season!

 

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